2007-05-07
07:17

lolslash #7

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2007-05-06
12:39

Reorganising My RSS Feeds

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I’ve just changed the way I organise my RSS feeds in Google Reader – if you’re having as much trouble as me keeping up with all the great feeds there are to read, this simple way of looking at them might just help you. You might not read any more, but you can at least know you’re reading the right things…


I’ve only actually caught up with reading all of my RSS feeds a couple of times in the last few months. I’m always behind, and even if I could take the time to catch up, I’m not entirely convinced it would be worth it.

I do my reading in Google Reader, and had my feeds organised into folders (or ‘tags’ in Googlespeak), sorted by their category. I had a folder for stuff relating to music, one relating to photography, one for all of PigPog’s feeds, one for comics, one for photo feeds, and so on.

This wasn’t working.

After a bit of thought, I decided to try completely changing the way they are organised. I created a set of numbered tags/folders, depending if I really need to see the stuff in it, or if it could be missed if I was short on time. I split the ‘must read’ feeds depending on how soon I really needed to see them. I was left with a few folders…

  • 1-First – the things I really need to see first. If there’s anything in one of these, I need to know about it quickly. PigPog’s feeds go in here, so I get to see newly posted stuff quickly – saves the embarrassment of failing to see something Sam posted hours ago, and means I get to see the mistakes reasonably soon in my own posts. Some typos are always invisible until I see them in the feed.
  • 2-Soon – stuff I need to read, and need to read pretty soon after it appears. This includes some of the more relevant search feeds, and some friends’ feeds.
  • 3-Fun – ahead of the other ‘must-read’ items, the things that I don’t have to read, I want to read. Comics, lolcats, etc. It may seem sill to have this folder a step above the ‘must-read’ folder, but I want my reading to be fun as well as informative.
  • 4-Must – stuff I really have to read. I really can’t miss anything posted in these feeds. It includes some friends and search feeds, but is mainly just blogs that often enough have great content that I wouldn’t want to miss.
  • 5-Should – this is stuff that I really do want to see, but it won’t actually matter if I don’t. Lifehacker is great, and I love reading it, but it’s difficult to keep up, and it won’t hurt if I miss a few items sometimes. I’ll try not to, but by deciding up front that I won’t get too hung up about it, I’m letting myself skip if I get behind again. Who am I kidding, I am behind again. Sorry, Gina.
  • 6-Dip – anything that can just be dipped into when I have time. From a practical point of view, I may rarely get to feeds in here, because I have enough to read in the other feeds. This way, though, they’re still there if I want them, and if I happen to catch up enough to read some of them.

There are two extra folders after these…

  • 7-Bin – Stuff I either don’t actually read, or I’m coming to terms with the fact that I’m never really going to get to them. It’s a halfway house to actually deleting them, just like a computer’s Recycle Bin or Trash folder. I don’t lose my unread counts, though, if I change my mind later.
  • 8-Dead – contains a bunch of feeds that haven’t updated for so long that I doubt their owners are coming back. They’re still here because I do want to know if they become active again. They’re not in the other folders because it didn’t seem worth making a decision about which folder they should go in.

I think I should also add something back that I did have before – an ‘Incoming‘ folder. New feeds that I subscribe to could go in here whilst I decide how important they are.

So far, this all seems to be working out well. I’m still way behind, but at least I can tell at a glance that I’m up to date on the important things.

2007-05-06
12:06

Digital Cameras

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Rather than trying to make a comprehensive list of all the available cameras by manufacturer, which was always going to be impossible for us to keep up to date, we’re going for a simpler approach – cameras by type, but only listing our top few picks in each category. We won’t attempt to provide much in-depth information, but we’ll link to people who do. We won’t try to tell you about every model, but we’ll tell you which you should be looking at.

So, all you need to know is what sort of camera you’re looking for…


  • Simple Compact: you don’t want much out of a camera – just to point it at things and press a button. You don’t really care about lots of features and buttons, because you’re not interested in photography, just photos.
  • Advanced Compact: you still want something small and portable, but you want something that you can learn with, and be a bit more creative with.
  • Ultra-Compact: you want your camera to go everywhere with you, so it has to be small.
  • Super-Zoom Compact: you don’t really want the bulk of an SLR, and you don’t need to change lenses, but you do want plenty of zoom range to make your camera more flexible in different circumstances.

  • Basic DSLR: you want to be able to change lenses, and you want the quality you can only get from a decent sized sensor, but you don’t need too many features – for now, at least.
  • Mid-range DSLR: you want a few more features, and you have a bit of money to spare. You might also want your camera to be able to take a few more knocks than some of the cheaper ones can cope with. You might even want to do some professional stuff – maybe getting into doing weddings?
  • High-end DSLR: you either have quite a bit of money to spare and want something really good, or you’re a pro and need something really good.

2007-05-06
12:05

Digital Cameras: Simple Compact

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If it’s a simple compact you’re after, then which one probably doesn’t matter to you too much – you’re not interested in features and brands. There are some pretty bad cameras out there if you don’t stick to the right brands, though, and some of the people you’ve heard of don’t make great cameras.

PigPog’s Pick

Our top pick in this category is the Panasonic DLC LS60 – it’s reasonably small, and has as many features as you’re likely to want, but doesn’t bother you with them. Just point it at things and press the button. Connect it to your computer, and it appears as another drive, so you can drag your photos to where you want them. It has optical image stablising – you may not care about that, but it will let you get sharp pictures where camera shake would have ruined them.

  • Pixel count doesn’t matter as much as people like to think, but its 6 megapixels is plenty.
  • 3x optical zoom is pretty standard now, but you wouldn’t really want any less.
  • It takes SD cards – they’re cheaper than the cards used by some other cameras, so you won’t spend as much on extras.

Also Consider

If you don’t mind spending a bit more, you should look at what Canon and Nikon have to offer, and Pentax have some nice cameras in this sort of range too. If size is important to you, you might also want to look at our page on Ultra-Compact cameras.

2007-05-06
10:45

Affiliate Links

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Got things to buy? If you buy things through the links on this page, we get a bit of a cut, which we’ll be very happy about. It won’t cost you any extra, and does us a favour, so we’re all happy – sound good?

Yeah.

Thought so.

Some of these are people we have actually used, and recommend, and others we haven’t tried – we’ll tell you which is which. Most of these will probably deliver internationally, but we’ll still split them into US and UK (US because most of our readers are there, UK because that’s where we are, along with the second-largest number of our visitors.)

International

Some sites really don’t have any local preference – online services, for example, don’t care what country you’re in.

  • SmugMug: has a reputation for being the best photo sharing site out there. They’d have to be, since there are plenty of places doing all that stuff for free, and they want money. They don’t want a lot of money, mind. I think I’ll be sticking with Flickr, for the social aspects of the site, but if I was more keen on having the best online albums to point family and friends at, or wanted to look a bit more professional, I’d be giving SmugMug a try.

US

  • Amazon.com: I’m sure you know Amazon already – it’s quick, easy, and their prices are usually good. There’s not much not to like about them. We haven’t actually shopped there, but we have at the UK version, and have always been happy.
  • Dick Blick: Art and craft materials – a vast selection thereof. We’ve never used them because they’re in the wrong country for us, but people in the US seem to love them.
  • ThinkGeek: If you’re a geek, you probably already know of them – binary watches, toys for cubicles, and many forms of caffeine to eat, drink, and rub all over your body.
  • Calumet Photographic: a great specialist photographic dealer in the US and the UK, Calumet usually have great prices. My experience with them here in the UK has been very good, too – great service in their Nottingham branch.
  • eBay: Not risk-free, but some great bargains to be had. Experience depends entirely on who you’re actually buying from.

UK

  • Amazon.co.uk: You’ve already used Amazon, haven’t you? Good experience? It usually is – we’ve shopped there many times, and it’s always been good. If you still mainly think of them as books and CDs, you need to have another look – they have expanded a lot.
  • Argos: You can’t really live in the UK without having experienced Argos, surely? The catalogs with the laminated pages. Mmmm… Laminated pages… Sorry. For a while they seemed to let the whole Internet shopping thing pass them by when they should have been leading everyone, but they’re getting the hang of it a bit better now. You can generally arrange to pick things up from your local store, too, which saves you going there just to find they’re out of stock.
  • Hotel Chocolat: You can join their chocolate tasting club, or send chocolate gifts to people, like a delicious version of Interflora. For the more health-conscious, they also offer assortments of fruit now.
  • eBay: Not risk-free, but some great bargains to be had. Experience depends entirely on who you’re actually buying from.
  • Cult Pens: OK, so we don’t actually get a cut from here, but Michael works there, so it kind of works indirectly.

2007-05-06
10:30

Slimming World Week 2 – eat Michael’s meaty balls!

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Following my triumphant loss at the scales last week, I was fired up and ready to hit the books to plan another great week of food optimising, and getting out there and cranking up those Body Magic minutes. I’m a measly half pound away from losing my first half a stone (that’s 7lb or just over 3kg to you non-stone folks out there), and as I said last week, never underestimate the motivational power of a certificate and a sticker.

There have been a few slip-ups along the way this week, but fortunately nothing to take me off plan. Thursday night I overdid it a smidge on the syns (the recommended daily amount of syns is between 5 and 15 – I had 15 and a half), but on the whole I’ve been ever-so, ever-so good *bats eyelashes at scales*, so I’m hoping to get that half pound shifted and be well on my way to losing my first whole stone.

This afternoon, Michael’s been playing in the kitchen, and has produced his first proper Slimming World-style recipe! Here it is:


Michael’s Meaty Balls with Asparagus Tips and Plum Tomatoes

Serves: 2 Syns per serving: Oooh, um, about 1 and a half on Original.

You will need:

  • A pack of extra lean steak mince
  • A bunch of spring onions, finely chopped
  • 2-3 tablespoons of Mushroom ketchup
  • A good sprinkling of Tabasco Sauce (Michael used the habanero variety)
  • 1 Weetabix (there’s your Syns – one biscuit is about 3 Syns, so one serving will be about 1 and a half.)
  • 1 egg
  • As much asparagus as you like
  • As many fresh plum tomatoes as you like (cherry tomatoes would work just as well too), halved
  • Fry Light

Mix together the mince, spring onions and egg, and add the mushroom ketchup and tabasco and mix until the ingredients are combined, then shape into balls.

Spray a large frying pan with fry light and cook the balls until cooked through. This took Michael about 10 minutes, however, your mileage may vary.

Meanwhile, cook the asparagus in a large pan of boiling salted water for 2 minutes. Drain and set aside.

Put the cooked balls on one side and briefly lightly fry the tomatoes for a couple of minutes.

Serve, eat, make rude remarks about tasty meaty balls. At least that’s what I did.

A beautiful low-syn meal from the man responsible for creating Marmite and Mustard fried rice (which may make an appearance here for a Green recipe).


Yesterday Michael and I went for a walk along the Canal. We saw the horse being taken home after a hard day barge-pulling, took photos and generally soaked up the splendour of life in this beautiful part of the world. Walking is a far more appealing concept down here in Devon, and climbing the stairs back to our flat afterwards really makes sure you feel the burn!

I’ve started a wish list of things I’m going to do and/or buy as the weight comes off. There are so many things I wouldn’t bother with before that I’m really looking forward to trying and buying. The list so far includes sunglasses (you need ‘em down here), a new hairdo and some saucy underwear ;) . I have treated myself this weekend to a pair of jeans, and if I can’t get in them when they arrive, well, I soon will.

I’ll post the result of my week 2 weigh-in tomorrow evening. Wish me luck.

2007-05-06
05:26

How to Draw People

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Latest Update: Just removing a broken link.

Even people who can draw other things fine often think they can’t draw people, for a number for reasons…

  • We draw in symbols – we think we know what an eye and a nose look like, so we tend to draw what we know rather than what we see – the person who you’re drawing probably doesn’t have a nose that looks like the nose you draw.
  • We’re often more worried about getting it wrong – if you’re drawing a tree, you don’t have to worry about the tree being offended at your drawing.
  • People are curved and folded – and these things actually are quite tricky to draw.

Books

In Drawing on the Right Side of the Brain, Betty Edwards uses a self portrait before and after teaching to show people how much they’ve improved, but she insists that most of the secret is just teaching people to see and draw what they see.

Tips

Drawing Eyes

Many thanks to Buns-N-Moses from the creativity thread at the All Things Considered Slash! forum for these great tips. Visit the forum to see his portraits of Slash, Matt Sorum, Axl Rose and Scott Weiland.

  • The lower edge of the eye always begins before the point where the upper edge ends. The edges never meet at a single point; instead the upper edge protrudes further than the lower one.
  • There are always definite lines above and below the eye (observe).
  • The inner-most part of the eye, the pupil, is the almost infinitely dark, and is surrounded by the less dark iris.
  • There is always a little bright point in any eye, unless the person is dead. This gives life to the persons face.
  • The edge closer to the nose is slightly rounded, as the tear ducts are there, and is always to be shaded slightly dark to give the eye its complete shape.
  • Try observing your own eye and you’ll automatically find out for yourself – it’s the smallest things that matter.

Tutorials

  • The Animation Learner’s Site – general tutorials, but some good specific coverage of the human figure. Doesn’t cover faces, but for that you can look to Learn to Draw…
  • Learn to Draw has an excellent tutorial on drawing faces. Only part of it is free, but the free part contains plenty of really good information, and guides you through the basics step-by-step.
  • Polykarbon offers tutorials in Manga/Comic Art style drawing, but has a good page of basic instruction for drawing people.

2007-05-04
15:09

Saving Money

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Latest Update: Added a second hack from J Wynia – Impulse Tax.


A page on being smarter with your money, to save you from having to spend all that precious creativity time working.

Tips

The saying is that if you look after the pennies, the pounds will look after themselves. Well, it is here, anyway – no idea if other countries have a similar version with their currencies, but you get the idea. Look after all the little bits of money, and it will all add up. Save 5p on twenty things, and you’ve saved £1 (cents, dollars, euros, etc).

The only problem with that is that saving £1 once may well be less difficult than saving 5p twenty times. Look for the bigger savings first, and keep in mind what your lifestyle is. If you are paying £500 a month in rent, saving £5 by giving up something you really enjoyed actually doesn’t help much at all. It’s unlikely to make the difference between making the rent payment or not. Buying the cheapest brand ketchup (catsup?) won’t do the job. Switching most of your weekly shopping to the cheapest own-brand stuff will make a big difference – then see what you miss. You might be surprised how good some of the cheap stuff is, and be happy to stick with it. If not, you didn’t waste much, because the stuff was so cheap, and you know it’s worth the extra bit to get your favourite brand of cereals.

If you usually never drink tap water, give it a go. Depending on where you live, it might not be good, but it might be fine. We’re lucky – ours tastes better than most bottled water, so we just fill bottles from the tap, stick ‘em in the fridge, and have cold water available to grab any time. If you do this, decide which end of the shelf to put the bottles into, and take them from the other end – they’ll always have had time to chill a little then, and we all like time to chill.

A look through a bank statement can be a quick easy way to get an idea of where the money is going. Cash is hidden, so if you do a lot of cash transactions, it might not help much. It can tell you where to look, though – are you spending most of your money in cash, or doing big spends at the supermarket too often? Once you know that, you can start looking in more detail at the places that eat your money. If it’s cash, you need to get a system to track where you’re spending it. If it’s all going to the supermarket (that was our downfall), grab some old receipts, and categorise things to see what you’re spending on. We were spending a lot on soft drinks, so first we switched to the cheap own brands, cutting the cost to a fraction of what it was. Then we started refilling water bottles with tap water, and cut our costs to almost nothing (we still have to buy more bottled water every now and then to get fresh bottles – they only last for so many refills).

Want to win the lottery? Well, there’s a way to make a profit on any lottery in any country. It won’t bag you the big money, but will get you some. Take the money you would normally spend on your lottery tickets and instead of handing them over to your friendly newsagent, put it in a jar. Do this every week for a year. If you only do £1 for Wednesdays and Saturdays for the UK National Lottery, that’ll add up to over £100.

Not Buying Things

  • A couple of commenters in Lifehacker’s Time to Budget post make suggestions for putting off purchases… ** Muddle-headed Wombat (er?) suggests the 24-hour rule – let yourself buy whatever you want, but if you don’t actually need it, you have to wait 24 hours. If you still care enough to go get it after 24 hours, go for it. If your budget is tighter, just increase the time you make yourself wait. I can definitely see this one working. ** Eugene uses a similar idea, but based on space and purpose. Nothing can be bought until there is a space for it to go in, and a defined purpose it will fill. Sounds like it would squish all those wonderful toy purchases, but would certainly be a good idea when money is tight.
  • J Wynia has a couple of great hacks. Ask yourself “Would you want it if you couldn’t tell anyone?” – how many things do we buy more for the impression they’ll make on others than for our own use? Or you can impose an impulse tax on yourself – making yourself put a percentage of any purchase price into savings if you buy it immediately, but reducing the amount with time. If you wait four weeks, the tax goes away – but how many things will still seem so appealing after four weeks?
  • Merlin has a great idea: a list of things you’re not buying. When he wants to buy something, he adds it to a list, and looks back on it later to see the stupid things he would have bought, if he’d let himself act on the impulse. Our house acts as this list, full of things we should never have bought. We’re much better at not adding to the ‘list’ now.

Buying Cheap Own Brands

  • Works for some things, but not for everything. You might need to spend a bit of time and money experimenting to find a good source for things. Ketchup for example – most is pretty poor, but usually one of the supermarkets is doing a good one. Try a few, then stock up on the good one – probably costs less than a quarter of the big name ones. Toilet paper can be a false economy – cheap stuff is much cheaper, but if you end up using twice as much, it’s not much help. Not enough to make up for the unpleasantness when it turns out not to be strong enough. Ugh.

Buying Online

You can usually save a bit by buying stuff online. Not everything is cheaper, but most things are. Here in the UK, next day delivery is fairly common, but a wait is common in some countries – the size of the USA gives them some advantages, but it can push delivery times up.

  • Watch out for delivery costs – check how much delivery is going to be if you can, whilst still comparing prices. It can make a big difference. I was on the point of buying a pocket torch recently, marked down from £30 to £5. Unfortunately, the cheapest delivery option was also £5, doubling the price of the item. Be careful you don’t then get pulled into ordering more things that you didn’t want in the first place, just to make the delivery charge feel more worthwhile ;)
  • Many checkout systems have a space for a coupon code, but what if you don’t have a coupon? Lifehacker posted about a site for sharing these codes, and their readers linked to more of them in the comments, so there’s a few places you can look. One person had recently saved $400 on a laptop by checking one of these sites for a coupon code before submitting their order.

Keeping Track of your Shopping

It’s so easily done, one trip around the supermarket, the stuff goes in the fridge and then you forget it’s there and nip out for a chinese takeaway instead. So why not…

Of course, if it is difficult keeping track of those mad dashes around the food hall, you could always try our next tip:

Eating Expired Food

  • Be careful – don’t get food poisoning. Tinned food usually lasts way longer than the date says, though – a man has recently eaten a tin of chicken that was 50 years old without coming to any harm.
  • You can usually tell with vegetables, and if they’re stored well, they can last well past the date on the pack. Open plastic bags as soon as you get home, to let them breathe.
  • In the UK at least, bottled water isn’t exempt from having a best before date on it. It actually shouldn’t ever go off, though. If you refill the bottles as mentioned above, remember that you didn’t fill them in sterile conditions, so the same may not apply. I’m not sure – it might be fine, but why worry for the price of a litre or two of tap water?
  • Cheese – keep it well wrapped, or it will go hard.
  • General rule – if it’s green and furry, you probably shouldn’t eat it. If it smells bad, it’s probably bad.

Make Your Own

Cooking

Preparing in Advance

  • Feed the Freezer! – a guide to doing all of your cooking for a month in a single day (plus part of a day for planning and shopping). Sounds way too organised for me, but a cut down version of it should be more achievable. (Found via Lifehacker.)

Cheap Recipes

  • No-Fail Curry – a fairly generic curry recipe, just using curry powder, but should do a pretty decent job, and leaves you plenty of room for changing bits around as needed.

Washing

  • You can use less washing powder than the manufacturers want you to think. Just try putting less in, and check the results are no worse. If you’re using tablets of powder, you can normally use one rather than two – and for small loads you might be able to get away with half a tablet. Watch out, though, some of them crumble badly when you try to snap them in half.

Washing Up

  • You don’t need to use much washing up liquid – if the things you’re cleaning aren’t greasy, you may not need any. Almost all washing up liquid now is concentrated, so you can also water it down a bit to make it easier to use less.

Pets

  • Cat Toys: notice how your cats aren’t that fussy about what they play with, and if it was intended to be a cat toy? Use it to your advantage. The plastic straps you get around packages can be great fun for ‘cat fishing’, but you have to be a bit more careful with them, and make sure there’s no sharp corners. Drink wine? Corks make good toys too. Don’t drink wine? I noticed recently that one of our local supermarkets sells corks at £2.19 for 50. That’s some cheap cat toys. The same aisle had drinking straws with fancy tinsel ends on them for cocktails – I’m sure an excellent cat toy could be made from one of them. Oh, and every cat owner knows that cats love cardboard boxes.

Paper and Pens

If you get through enough paper and pens to worry about the costs, there’s plenty you can do to cut costs a bit without losing quality.

  • You can buy some very cheap notebooks, but they’re not always the best quality. Unless you get through a lot of paper, though, the price of a Moleskine a month is unlikely to break the bank, and they do last well. Also see our paper and notebooks page.
  • If you’re in it for the long run, a nice binder and punching your own paper will work out cheaper than buying Moleskine notebooks. If it’s cheapness you’re after, though, beware of binders where you will need to buy special paper. You can cut sheets down to the right size yourself, and punch the holes yourself, but it can be a lot of effort.
  • Another long term saving is to buy a nice fountain pen. It will be more enjoyable to use than a disposable gel pen, and if you get a converter to use bottled ink, it will work out much cheaper than disposable pens. Our bottle of Noodler’s Ink cost us £8, but we’ll get over 100 refills out of that, making it around 8p a filling. My Cross Ion was costing me almost £3 each refill. The refills lasted a bit longer, but not that much longer! Even counting in the £13 my Lamy Safari fountain pen cost, I should be well ahead before I get through the first bottle of ink.

Electronics

  • Use Rechargeable Batteries: It doesn’t make sense for everything – things like remotes tend to use so little power that a couple of cheap alkaline batteries will last for years. If you’ve used rechargeables before, but given up on them, it might be worth trying again – they’ve improved a lot in the last few years. The power capacity has roughly doubled, especially if you shop around for good ones – look for the mAh figure – milliamp hours – that’s the amount of power the batteries will store. Also, the old ‘memory effect’ that plagued NiCad batteries doesn’t happen with modern NiMH and LiIon batteries, so you can just charge ‘em, use ‘em, then top-up charge ‘em again when you get home.
  • Buy stuff a bit behind the cutting edge – you get much better value that way. This can be a problem with stuff you really care about, though – if your requirements are a bit ahead of the cutting edge, you don’t really want to stay behind. I’m generally happy with using a computer that’s a bit behind. I don’t play games much, so the fastest processor and graphics card don’t really matter to me. With digital cameras, though, even the cutting edge is a fair way behind what I want, so it’s worth it to keep as current as I can afford to.

Budgeting

Making a real budget, and controlling every last bit you spend might be the only way if you really need to cut back. When we needed to cut the spending back as far as we possibly could, we started by putting together a list of categories, and estimating how much we might need to spend on each one for a month. Then, we started writing down everything we spent. No forgetting. The very act of making ourselves write it all down and match it up to categories made us much more thoughtful about what we were doing, and made a big difference on its own. It’s surprising how far out some of the estimates were, but that doesn’t really matter. The first month you do this, they can only be estimates.

If you want a simpler way of keeping track of this sort of thing, have a look at the Stackbacks Budget – look for the link to the .pdf file at near the top of the page. It uses a system of two bank accounts to make all of this sort of management easy.

Debt

The best thing to do is avoid it, but if it’s too late for that, there’s the usual selection of good advice in this Lifehacker ask the readers post.

Resources

Know of any good money saving sites? Let us know by leaving a comment.

2007-05-04
14:07

Hello Kitty Cigarette Case

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Cute, but deadly – Phear the Cute Ones.

2007-05-03
16:14

Lolslash

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You may have seen lolcats, lolgeeks and even a complete episode of loltrek but only here will you find the one, the only… lolslash!

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[image:2701 size=original]

[image:2702 size=original]

  • See also an earlier attempt here